My Journey with the Elizabethans - My Partner's Design

For the assessment, we will be working with our partner's make-up looks that they have designed and we will be creating them on them.  Ashleigh's design uses a pale skin base, rosey cheeks, a white eyeshadow with red eyeliner, mascara, an ombre lip and a stencil design at the side on her temple.

Ashleigh's make-up design has elements that I feel I will be able to create well and hopefully in the way that she wants me to.  In order for me to understand Ashleigh's make-up design properly, we went through it together in our studio session this week.  Ashleigh provided me with a set of instructions telling me exactly how to recreate her look and when I was practicing her design we went through and made a few changes to her look to make it look better.  For example, originally she was going to have black eyeliner, however we thought that a red liner might link better with the lips to tie the look together a bit better.  We also decided that the stencil was going to take too much time to do on the day of assessment, so Ashleigh has decided to replace it with some Polka Dot PAPERSELF Lashes.

Below is the step by step that Ashleigh provided me with:

Equipment needed:

Kryolan foundation palette

Illamasqua white foundation

Matte primer

Illamasqua loose powder

Illamasqua powder blusher, Tremble

Sleek white eye shadow

Rimmel London Scandaleyes mascara

Kryolan lip palette, LC010

MAC lip pencil, Black Black

PAPERSELF Polka Dot lashes

Lash glue

Foundation brush

Buffing brush

Concealer brush

Powder brush

Highlighting brush

Eye shadow brush

Angled brush

Lip brush

Disposable mascara wands

 

Step by step guide:

- Mix my partner’s foundation shade with the Illamasqua white foundation and matte primer

- Apply the base to the face, ears and neck using the foundation brush and buff in well

- Using a disposable mascara wand and the white foundation, whiten out the eyebrows and comb in an upward direction to make the hairs stand up

- Tidy up any small areas that may have been missed out using the concealer brush and powder the skin well using the powder brush

- Using the highlighter brush, apply the blusher to the apples of the cheeks in a circular motion and drag the colour back slightly towards the outer of the face

- Apply the white eye shadow across the eyelids and up to the brow bone

- Use Kryolan lip colour LC010 as an eyeliner and the angled brush to apply it to the top of the eyelid

- Use a disposable mascara wand to apply mascara to the eyelashes, top and bottom

- Then apply the Polka Dot lashes to the top and bottom lashes of the left eye

- Complete the look by applying the ombre lip colour.  To create this look, apply lip colour, LC010, to the whole lip, ensuring that the lip line is crisp and clean.  Then take the MAC lip pencil and apply a smaller area on the inner of the top and bottom lip

My Journey with the Elizabethans - My Final Design

For my final make-up design, I have decided to go with the deep purple design with the Antique Jewellery lashes.  I have chosen this design, because it is the design that I was most passionate about when creating the face chart.  I also believe that this design has more meaning behind it, whereas the other two were just created because I thought that they looked slightly Elizabethan mixed with contemporary twists.

When trialling my design, I played around with various extra details in the eyebrow and on the lips.  Because I didn't want to block out my eyebrows like they did in the Elizabethan era, I wanted to make them stand out even more.  To do this, I played around with adding a small line of eyeliner either above the eyebrow or below it.

I think that the line underneath the arch of the eyebrow (shown on the left) worked best, as this made the eyebrow seem lifted and appear fuller, making them stand out more, which is what I wanted.

I also played with some of the lip techniques that we learnt in the 'Lip Trip' workshop, and I decided on gradient lip (also shown on the left), using a slightly darker shade of lipstick to outline the lips and make them stand out even more.

Having experimented with my look myself before handing it over to my partner, I could overcome any problems that might have occurred and explained to her how to overcome them as well if she were to face the same problems.

Communicating my design to my partner:
So that my partner, Ashleigh, can create my make-up design in the way that I want her to, I have created a pack for her.  The pack includes my initial face chart of the design, the images displayed above of how I want the outcome to look and a step by step guide of how to create my look.  This is explained below:

Equipment needed:

Kryolan foundation palette

Illamasqua white foundation

Matte primer

Illamasqua cream powder, Laid

Illamasqua powder blusher, Ambition

Illamasqua loose powder

Urban Decay cream eyeliner, Zero

PAPERSELF Antique Jewellery Lashes

Lash glue

Kryolan lip palette, LC010/ LC009

Foundation brush

Buffing brush

Concealer brush

Powder brush

Contouring brush

Highlighting brush

Eye shadow brush

Angled brush

Lip brush

Step by step guide:

- Mix my foundation shade, Illamasqua Rich Liquid Foundation, White and Illamasqua Matte Primer together

- Apply base to the face, ears and neck, making sure to buff in well

- Apply Illamasqua Cream Blusher, Laid to the cheek bones and blend into the skin to get rid of any harsh lines

- Powder all skin that is covered in foundation heavily to make sure that the make-up sets using a powder brush

- Apply Illamasqua Power Blusher, Ambition on top of the cream blusher and blend in, again to avoid any harsh lines

- Apply Urban Decay Cream Eyeliner, Zero to the top eyelid

- Also apply a thin line of Urban Decay Cream Eyeliner, Zero to the underneath arch of the eyebrows

- Apply Kryolan Lip Palette, LC010 to the whole lips.  Then mix a small amount of LC010 with a scraping of LC009 and apply this darker colour to the outline of the lips, blending it towards the middle of the lip to create an ombre lip effect

- Apply Paperself Antique Jewellery Lashes to upper and lower lash lines, ensuring that the teardrop ends are at the corners of the eye

My Journey with the Elizabethans - My Three Designs

In order to make our designs clear and concise when presenting them to our partners, we created three possible final design face charts.  On these face charts we created our designs using the products that we would use when creating the proper design.  At the side of the design,  I wrote a list of the products that I used and on which area of the face, so that my partner can refer to it and be clear with what she is doing.  Below are my three ideas, all of which would have a pale face created from a mixture of my colour foundation with the Illamasqua Rich Liquid Foundation, White.

My first face chart  uses quite a neutral palette of colours, with the beige colours on the eyes and darker brown lips.  I have also drawn on the pattern of the Antique Jewellery PAPERSELF Lashes on the eyebrows so that you can see where they would be positioned.

To create this design, I would start of with the white base all over the face, ears and neck.  I would then add colour to the cheeks using Illamasqua Powder Blusher, Disobey.  After that I would create a subtle contoured eye effect  on the eyelids using Sleek Original palette.  I would add a thin line of eyeliner to the eyelids and a touch of mascara before filling in the lips with Kryolan Lip palette, LCP694.  I would finish my look off by sticking the Antique Jewellery Lashes over the eyebrows.

I feel that this design is a good example of a contemporary Elizabethan make-up look, as the base is quite pale and the colour on the cheeks and eyes is also quite subtle.  The contemporary twist in this design is the dark shade on the lips and the fact that it is a  neutral palette being used, as neutral colours weren't used during the Elizabethan era, just pinks and rouges.

I originally created this face chart in response to our 'Lash Deco' workshop, but I really like it and feel that it could work successfully as a contemporary Elizabethan design.  I think that it is an effective design, because it has bot Elizabethan and modern traits within it.  I like the way that I have positioned the PAPERSELF lashes on the eyebrows, as I feel that they look a bit like a crown and they frame the face nicely.

My second face chart  uses more rosey pink colours, with the traditional Elizabethan rosed cheeks and lip.  I have also added a touch of pink eyeshadow in the outer corners of the eyes to carry the colour theme up throughout the face.  I have also drawn on the pattern of the Polka Dot PAPERSELF Lashes on the outer, upper lashes.

To create this design, I would begin by applying the pale foundation base all over the face,  ears and neck being sure to powder it well.  I would then apply Illamasqua Powder Blusher, Tremble to the cheeks.  After that I would apply a small touch of Sleek Original palette, Pink to the outer corners of the eyelids.  I would then add a touch of mascara to the top and bottom lashes, but not too much, before applying the Polka Dot PAPERSELF Lashes on the outer upper lashes.  I would complete the look by adding Kryolan Lip palette, LC008 to the lips.

I feel that this design is a good contemporary Elizabethan look, with a few more Elizabethan details than contemporary, but it could still work.  This look is very Elizabethan with the pale skin and pink cheeks and lips, however I have made it more contemporary by adding the pink to the eyelids and by using the PAPERSELF lashes.

I think that this design is quite effective, because although it is a fairly simple design, there are still detailed elements that makes it more interesting.  For example, the eye area.

My third face chart uses a darker purple palette for the cheeks and lip.  I have decided to not use eyeshadow in this design, just a line of black eyeliner on the eyelid, keeping close to the lash line.  I have also drawn on the pattern of the Antique Jewellery PAPERSELF Lashes in the position that I want them to be on my lash lines.

To create this look, I would begin by applying the pale foundation base all over the face,  ears and neck.  I would then apply Illamasqua Cream Blusher, Laid to the cheeks, powder the face, ears and neck before then applying Illamasqua Powder Blusher, Ambition.  After that I would apply a line of mascara to the eyelids and then I would apply. the Antique Jewellery PAPERSELF Lashes on the upper and lower lashes.  I would complete the look by adding Kryolan Lip palette, LC010 to the lips.

I feel that this design is a good contemporary Elizabethan look, with an equal amount of contemporary and Elizabethan aspects to it.  This look is Elizabethan with the pale skin and areas if the face that are highlighted with colour (the cheeks and lips).  It is contemporary in the fact that I chosen to use deep purple colours to highlight the cheeks and lips and I have made it more modern by having more detail around the eye area.  Also, although purple was not the standard colour to be used to highlight the cheeks and lips during the Elizabethan era, it was a colour that the Elizabethans considered to symbolise royalty, which is why I chose that to be the colour to go on my cheeks and lip.

I think that this design is quite effective because of my meaning behind the look.  I also think that the extra detail in the eye area really adds to the effect of the look.  This is because it makes the eyes bolder, which reflects the bold purple lip, bringing the whole look together.

The Make-Up Studio - CONTEMPORARY ELIZABETHAN MAKE-UP

In this week's studio session, we were looking at how to create a contemporary Elizabethan make-up look, in order to begin preparing for our final face chart designs.  We looked at a contemporary Elizabethan look and created our own interpretation of it on our partner.

Equipment used:

Kryolan foundation palette

http://lapetitefashionista.blogspot.co.uk/2010/11
/fashion-royalty.html

Illamasqua white foundation

Matte primer

Illamasqua powder blusher, Ambition

Illamasqua loose powder

Sleek eye shadow palette, Au Naturel

Urban Decay cream eyeliner, Zero

Rimmel London Scandaleyes mascara

Kryolan lip palette, LC010

Foundation brush

Buffing brush

Concealer brush

Powder brush

Contouring brush

Highlighting brush

Eye shadow brush

Angled brush

Lip brush

Disposable mascara wand

How to create a CONTEMPORARY ELIZABETHAN LOOK

Mix your model’s correct foundation shade on the back of your hand with the white foundation and matte primer

Apply all over the skin, including ears and neck, using the foundation brush and buff in well using the buffing brush

Powder the face well using the powder brush

Apply the blusher to the cheek bones using the contouring brush, and blend away any harsh lines created using the highlighting brush

Using three eye shadow colours of your choice (I used Taupe, Conker and Mineral Earth from the Sleek eye shadow palette) create a contoured eye shadow effect as practiced in week five

Add a eyeliner to the top and lower lash lines using the angled brush and finish off the eyes by adding a touch of mascara to the lashes by using a disposable mascara wand

Then add the lip colour to the lips, being sure that you get the lip line perfect

'Lip Trip' Workshop

In this week's seminar with Lara, we had a workshop called 'Lip Trip' which involved working with the lips to create more exciting lip designs and techniques.  I find lips really difficult to get perfect when applying lipstick to someone else, and this workshop was definitely useful to me and after having taken part in it, I feel a lot more confident about the next time I will apply lipstick to someone else.

The three C's that need to be remembered when creating a lip design...

Control, Colour, Curve

During the workshop, we were given some top tips for when applying lip colour to a model or client:

- Before applying anything to the lips gently exfoliate them to get rid of any dry or dead skin

- Put a small amount of lip balm on the lips before applying any other products

- Begin by applying lip liner; either to outline the lips or all over to act as a base colour

- When lining the lips, get your model to tilt her head to the side when applying the top lip line up to the point of the cupids bow

- Always use flat brushes when applying lipstick.  You can use different sizes to create different effects

- To make the lipstick appear matte, hold a thin tissue layer over the lips and dust some powder over the tissue.  The powder will transfer through the tissue particles, leaving your lip design with a matte finish effect

- To create a fuller lip effect, add a small amount of gloss to the middle of the bottom lip, and the top of the cupids bow

We also learnt about different lip effects that can be created.  They are all really simple to do, yet so effective once applied.

GRADIENT EFFECT; apply a base colour all over the lips.  Line the lips with a lip liner three shades different (either darker or lighter, it's your choice) than your chosen lip colour.  Blend the colours together.

OMBRE EFFECT; apply a base colour all over the lips.  Line the cupids bow with another colour and fade out along the lip line to the outer corners of the lip.  Finish by applying your third colour to the middle of the top and bottom lips and blend outwards using a flat blending brush.

TWO TONE EFFECT; apply one colour on the top lip.  Apply another colour on the bottom lip.  Ensure that the lips do not touch before the lipstick has properly dried, otherwise this will ruin the effect.

Below is a gradient effect that I tried out during the workshop.  The image on the left shows a matte effect of the gradient lip, where I dusted some powder lightly over the lips.  In the image on the right, I applied a small amount of gloss to the middle of the bottom lip and cupids bow to make the lips appear fuller.