The Make-Up Studio - BASE APPLICATION & SKIN CORRECTIONS

Equipment used:

Kryolan foundation palette

Primer

Kryolan concealer palette

Illamasqua loose powder

Foundation brush

Buffing brush

Concealer brush

Powder brush

SKIN TONES AND FOUNDATIONS

o   Fair skin – Ivory, light beige, warm pink or peachy foundation tones

o   Medium skin tone – Medium beige

o   Light brown skin – Light browns with warm tones

o   Medium brown skin tone – Light browns with orange tones

o   Olive skin tone – Dark beige or bronze foundation tones

o   Dark brown skin tone – Deep bronze with orange tones

o   Black skin tone – Dark golden bronze

How to apply FOUNDATION

Before beginning always wash your hands and put a gown on your model/client

Make sure your brushes are clean and your work station is set up ready to go

Match the foundation to your model’s skin tone, mixing different shades on the back of your hand and testing the colour on the jaw bone to get the best colour match.  Blend the other tested shades into the skin once you have found the correct match

Mix primer into the foundation on the back of your hand and apply to the skin using your foundation brush

Begin in the middle of the face and work your way out (starting at the nose and blending out to the hairline and outer face).  This gives a more natural look

Be sure to cover the face, ears and neck, all the way down to the neckline of your model’s clothing

Once you have covered the skin, buff the foundation in using a buffing brush to get rid of any lines made when applying the foundation and to give the skin a smoother effect

Once the foundation is applied and buffed, you will need to conceal any areas that may need it

Conceal around the eye and nose area to get rid of any dark circles or redness.  Also conceal any blemishes

NOTE: any corrective make-up using green, lilac or yellow shades of concealer should be applied before the foundation.  Any skin coloured concealers can be applied after the foundation

Use the small concealer brush to apply the concealer to the skin and then buff in with the buffing brush to get rid of any harsh lines

Finish off by powdering all of the skin covered with make-up.  This can be done by using a powder brush or powder puff

Powdering sets the foundation and be sure to powder lots around the eye area to stop any bleeding

Foundation application summed up:

-> Choose the correct colour

-> Check the colour matches on jaw line and that it matches the forehead too

-> Begin with a small amount around the nose area

-> Blend upwards into the hair line and out from the nose across the face

-> Buff all over the face, ears and neck